Investigating the Performance of Sewn Seams from Woven Fabrics

Abstract Seam performance ensures the durability, attractiveness, strength etc. of the sewn garments. Fabric types, fabric densities, fabric strength, seam types, sewing thread count, thread strength, stitch densities and stitch types influence the performance of a sewn seam. This paper investigates the performance of sewn seam of various structure of woven fabric. The variables of this research are stitch densities (SPI), sewing thread count, seam types and woven structures. We conduct our research over plain, twill 2/1, twill 2/2, oxford and poplin woven structure. Firstly, we apply lockstitch (301) to produce superimposed, lapped and bound seam on the woven sample by using thread count 27 Tex, 30 Tex, 20/2 Tex, 40 Tex, 40/2 Tex, 40/3 Tex having stitch densities (SPI) 8, 10 and 12. Then according to ASTM D1683 standard, we measured the tensile strength test and recorded the seam breaking strength (N). We apply error bars over each diagram to investigate the standard deviation. Finally, we discuss four hypothesis to conclude our research work. We found higher seam breaking strength with the increase of thread count and SPI. The bound seam samples has shown superior seam breaking strength than superimposed and lapped seam; poplin structure surpassed to others. The seam efficiency of the samples varies from 60–90% and do not exceeds 100%. Finally, we found some significant alternatives hypothesis of the population since F values exceeded F critical values for the sewn seam.