textile, costume, cloth, garb, garment, costume, cepuk [[Etno]], kamben cepuk [Etno]]

Rectangular piece of textile fabric of tuskat cotton running from the city edge to the city edge. The short sides are uncovered with a short fringe. The stretches along the long sides (warp breathing) and the short ends (weft stripping) frame the travel-colored (weft peach) middle section. The bottom color is reddish brown. Patterns in White, Blue, Brown and Orange Red. Most likely, natural. This cepuk is called kamben cepuk padang derman, or kamben cepuk padang alija. Different types of camber cepuk are distinguished by the pattern of the middle part. Padang alija and padang derman are different varieties of grass. Also the stretchers along the long sides have a travel-colored (wrapp-sided) ribbon. In this case, two different elements are combined: first, the batter’s catak, the “frog leg,” and second, a simpler rhombus shape. This travel-colored section can be found between the rows of white triangles (also these in wrapping sheets) on the side stretches. These are called gigin Barong, “Barong’s teeth,” and refer to Barong, Rangda’s opponent. Cepuk was used in several ways: for example, as a sweep skirt (comb) or draped over her shoulders (and under Rangdamasken) by Rangda and her assistant in ritual dramas. In this context, cepuk constitutes a powerful magic attribute. Cepuk has strong protective and exorcistic power, which is why it occurs in almost all forms of rituals. Especially when crossing rites, cepuk is an important element, as the need for protection is considered greatest when transitioning from one life stage to another. The different conceptual types have different status. Those of the highest status were used, for example, in the ceremonies of purification and as sweep of high-capped people. This type of cepuk (kamben cepuk padang derman or alija) is of a lower status and is also worn by girls at menstrual ceremonies and sweeping by mediocre people. Source: Nabholz-Kartaschoff, Marie-Louise. “A A av Rangda. Kamben Cepuk of Bali and Nusa Penida.” in: To Speak with Cloth. Studies in Indonesian Textiles. Ed: Gittinger, Mattiebelle. 1989. Museum of Cultural History: Los Angeles. According to the general catalogue: “Cloth of cotton fabric. Red-brown bottom, with its entire surface except the edges decorated in ikat technique, blue and black details. Used for various purposes, including for leg sweep before burning.” (NS) [[Etno]]