Javascript must be enabled to continue!
Focusing deep-water surface gravity wave packets: wave breaking criterion in a simplified model
View through CrossRef
Geometric, kinematic and dynamic properties of focusing deep-water surface gravity wave packets are examined in a simplified model with the intent of deriving a wave breaking threshold parameter. The model is based on the spatial modified nonlinear Schrödinger equation of Dysthe (Proc. R. Soc. Lond. A, vol. 369 (1736), 1979, pp. 105–114). The evolution of initially narrow-banded and weakly nonlinear chirped Gaussian wave packets are examined, by means of a trial function and a variational procedure, yielding analytic solutions describing the approximate evolution of the packet width, amplitude, asymmetry and phase during focusing. A model for the maximum free surface gradient, as a function of $\unicode[STIX]{x1D716}$ and $\unicode[STIX]{x1D6E5}$, for $\unicode[STIX]{x1D716}$ the linear prediction of the maximum slope at focusing and $\unicode[STIX]{x1D6E5}$ the non-dimensional packet bandwidth, is proposed and numerically examined, indicating a quasi-self-similarity of these focusing events. The equations of motion for the fully nonlinear potential flow equations are then integrated to further investigate these predictions. It is found that a model of this form can characterize the bulk partitioning of $\unicode[STIX]{x1D716}-\unicode[STIX]{x1D6E5}$ phase space, between non-breaking and breaking waves, serving as a breaking criterion. Application of this result to better understanding air–sea interaction processes is discussed.
Title: Focusing deep-water surface gravity wave packets: wave breaking criterion in a simplified model
Description:
Geometric, kinematic and dynamic properties of focusing deep-water surface gravity wave packets are examined in a simplified model with the intent of deriving a wave breaking threshold parameter.
The model is based on the spatial modified nonlinear Schrödinger equation of Dysthe (Proc.
R.
Soc.
Lond.
A, vol.
369 (1736), 1979, pp.
105–114).
The evolution of initially narrow-banded and weakly nonlinear chirped Gaussian wave packets are examined, by means of a trial function and a variational procedure, yielding analytic solutions describing the approximate evolution of the packet width, amplitude, asymmetry and phase during focusing.
A model for the maximum free surface gradient, as a function of $\unicode[STIX]{x1D716}$ and $\unicode[STIX]{x1D6E5}$, for $\unicode[STIX]{x1D716}$ the linear prediction of the maximum slope at focusing and $\unicode[STIX]{x1D6E5}$ the non-dimensional packet bandwidth, is proposed and numerically examined, indicating a quasi-self-similarity of these focusing events.
The equations of motion for the fully nonlinear potential flow equations are then integrated to further investigate these predictions.
It is found that a model of this form can characterize the bulk partitioning of $\unicode[STIX]{x1D716}-\unicode[STIX]{x1D6E5}$ phase space, between non-breaking and breaking waves, serving as a breaking criterion.
Application of this result to better understanding air–sea interaction processes is discussed.
Related Results
Gravity data reduction, Bouguer anomaly, and gravity disturbance
Gravity data reduction, Bouguer anomaly, and gravity disturbance
Each point on the earth has a gravity and gravity potential value. Surfaces formed by connecting points with equal gravity potential values are called equipotential surfaces or lev...
Gender differences in response to medical red packets (Hongbao, monetary gifts): a questionnaire study on young doctors in China
Gender differences in response to medical red packets (Hongbao, monetary gifts): a questionnaire study on young doctors in China
Abstract
Background
The acceptance of informal payments by doctors is usually viewed as unethical behavior. However, in China, such behavior is a co...
Status and Trends in Research on Deep‐Water Gravity Flow Deposits
Status and Trends in Research on Deep‐Water Gravity Flow Deposits
AbstractDeep‐water gravity flows are one of the most important sediment transport mechanisms on Earth. After 60 years of study, significant achievements have been made in terms of ...
Nonlinear Drift of the Spring Gravimeter Caused by Air Pressure from the Kunming GS15 Gravimeters
Nonlinear Drift of the Spring Gravimeter Caused by Air Pressure from the Kunming GS15 Gravimeters
Abstract
In order to monitor and correct the meteorological factors of the spring gravity meter, the characteristics of the time varying gravity changes caused by m...
Using spherical scaling functions in scalar and vector airborne gravimetry
Using spherical scaling functions in scalar and vector airborne gravimetry
<p>Airborne gravimetry is capable to provide Earth&#8217;s gravity data of high accuracy and spatial resolution for any area of interest, in particular for ha...
Gravity wave intermittency derived from HIRDLS and SABER satellite limb soundings
Gravity wave intermittency derived from HIRDLS and SABER satellite limb soundings
<p>Sources of atmospheric gravity waves are mostly located in the troposphere and the lower stratosphere. Gravity waves propagate away from their sources, re-distribu...
Planetary wave‐gravity wave interactions during mesospheric inversion layer events
Planetary wave‐gravity wave interactions during mesospheric inversion layer events
AbstractRayleigh lidar temperature observations over Gadanki (13.5°N, 79.2°E) show a few mesospheric inversion layer (MIL) events during 20–25 January 2007. The zonal mean removed ...
Terrain effects of cultural features upon shallow borehole gravity data
Terrain effects of cultural features upon shallow borehole gravity data
Abstract
Borehole gravity surveys of oil and gas reservoirs are usually run at depths of thousands of feet, and such surveys are not likely to be significantly af...

