Quantitative and qualitative evaluation of hydroquinone in depigmenting cosmetic products marketed in Lome

Abstract Introduction: Voluntary cosmetic depigmentation is widely practiced in Togo, particularly among young women. Hydroquinone, an effective but potentially toxic depigmenting agent banned in cosmetics by European regulations, remains available on the market. This study aimed to identify and quantify hydroquinone in depigmenting cosmetic products marketed in the country in order to assess their regulatory compliance and health risks. Materials and Methods A field survey was conducted among cosmetic product vendors in two markets in Lomé. Label characteristics were analyzed. Hydroquinone was identified by Thin Layer Chromatography (TLC), and its concentration was determined by High-Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC). Results Thirty-one vendors participated in the survey. The main users of the products were women, and 56 brands were identified, predominantly body lotions. Adverse effects such as burns, hyperpigmentation, and acne were reported by 32.3% of the vendors, while label analysis revealed the frequent presence of potentially harmful ingredients (AHAs, kojic acid, and hydroquinone at 12.5%) and a predominantly West African origin for the products. A total of 25 representative samples were collected for analysis. Analyses showed that 19 out of 25 products contained hydroquinone, 13 of which were not listed on the label. Twelve products had a hydroquinone content exceeding 2%. Oil-based products and serums had the highest concentrations, reaching up to 6.3%. Conclusion This study reveals a worrying and non-compliant presence of hydroquinone in depigmenting cosmetic products sold in Togo. It underscores the urgent need to strengthen regulatory controls, raise consumer awareness of the dangers associated with the use of these products, and promote safe alternatives based on natural active ingredients.