Characterization of caffeinated facial creams with Diploknema butyracea butter as an emollient

Abstract. Subedi S, Koirala S, Pokharel P, Bhandari DR. 2025. Characterization of caffeinated facial creams with Diploknema butyracea butter as an emollient. Asian J Nat Prod Biochem 23: 11-18. Caffeine, a versatile ingredient in cosmetics, is known for its vasoconstrictive, anti-inflammatory, UV protective, and anti-aging properties. The plant Diploknema butyracea, a medium-sized tree belonging to the Sapotaceae family, native to Nepal, India, and Bhutan, is known as chyuri, and its seeds contain about 55% fat, known as chyuri butter. Chyuri butter is rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids and vitamins (A and E) to hydrate, nourish, soften skin and serve as an effective emollient. In this study, we formulated caffeinated facial creams with D. butyracea butter and meticulously evaluated their physical and chemical properties. Caffeine was extracted via liquid-liquid extraction. Four formulations (F1 to F4) with varying concentrations of chyuri butter and caffeine were assessed for pH, stability, acid and saponification values, spreadability, in-vitro occlusivity, centrifugation, after-feel, smear type, removal, and dilution. The pH of the creams ranged from 6.7 to 7.6. All formulations, except F1, remained stable and homogeneous at different temperatures. Acid values (9.5-11.2) and saponification values (23.5-26.8) were satisfactory. The creams demonstrated good spreadability (4.3-4.5 cm) and improved water retention due to chyuri butter. No phase separation occurred during centrifugation. The creams formed a non-greasy film, were easily removable with tap water, and were confirmed as O/W (oil in water) type. Our findings not only validate the efficacy of caffeine and chyuri butter in cosmetic cream formulations but also open up new possibilities for their use in skincare products.