New directions in costume design in contemporary cinema in Turkey: Conversations with costume designer Gülümser Gürtunca

This study traces the evolution of costume practices in Turkish cinema from the early Republican era (1919–38) through Yeşilçam (1950s–80s) to the contemporary period, situating these developments within the broader political economy of the industry. By focusing on the work of prominent costume designer Gülümser Gürtunca, the article examines how aesthetic tendencies in costume design have transformed across cinema, television and streaming platforms. Gürtunca emphasizes that costume should never merely replicate the past, but should emotionally translate it – an approach that bridges historical fidelity with creative agency. Her emphasis on intuition, visual storytelling and character depth highlights the cultural work of costume designers in navigating national identity, gender roles and visual memory. This article contributes to ongoing debates on the professionalization of costume design and its adaptation to new technologies and global markets. Drawing on a semi-structured interview with Gürtunca, the study identifies two key transformative dynamics in recent costume design: the increasing internationalization of Turkish TV dramas and the rising influence of AI in costume design. While AI tools increasingly assist with fabric visualization and historical modelling, Gürtunca emphasizes that no algorithm can substitute for the intuition required to read a character’s psychological depth through dress. By examining these developments, the study explores the role of costume as an active site of cultural negotiation, labour and authorship in the evolving landscape of Turkish cinema.