Zandra Rhodes’ ‘Works of Art’ (1979–1988): From Feminine Frills to Goddess Saris

By 1979 the British fashion designer Zandra Rhodes (b. 1940) was well established and internationally renowned for her colourful hand screen-printed silk chiffon crinoline dresses. The femininity of her chiffon dresses ensured their continuation as best–sellers beyond 1979, but little has been written about her other dress designs during the 1980s. During this period Rhodes introduced new styles including her heavily beaded ‘exotic tunics’ and designer saris worn over hip panniers. Zandra Rhodes’ designs were perceived as feminine when worn by the designer herself, her models and her clientele; and represented as feminine in their portrayal in magazines and newspapers at the time. Using original records held in the Zandra Rhodes Archives, London, as well as material gathered during the Zandra Rhodes Digital Study Collection project (Jisc, 2011–2013), this article examines the period 1979–1988 within a framework of feminine representation and also considers Rhodes’ proposition that her designs are ‘works of art’.