Mordvinian-Moksha female breastplate: the dynamics of shaping

In the article, the author addresses the study of the cultural aspects of a unique accessory of traditional Moksha clothing, the nakosnik puloker. The reasons for the millennia-long appeal of the nakosnik, which has become a symbol not only of the Moksha woman but also of Mordovian culture, are considered. Moreover, it is important to understand the origins of the modifications in the form of the nakosnik that followed from the 10th century. The absence of scientific works on the topic emphasizes the relevance of the ongoing research. The results of studying this unique ethnic symbol of the Mordovian people are necessary for addressing scientific and practical tasks in ethnography, cultural studies, museology, and the attribution of canonical art pieces aimed at preserving cultural heritage. Ancient artistic images are currently a valuable resource for the development of jewelry and decorative applied arts in Russia, as well as a source for studying the art of traditional costumes of the peoples of our country. The article employs general scientific methods, a comparative-historical method for analyzing artifacts from the archaeological sites of the Mordovian people, and a method of semantic analysis of Mordovian mythology and costume art. The study of the nakosnik, thanks to systematic and cultural-anthropological approaches, allows for an understanding of the spiritual culture of the Mordva and tracking its connections with neighboring peoples. Firstly, the role of spiritual values shaped by pagan culture, in which solar symbols Shi and Chi—day and sun—were central and initially deified in female images—Shiava (m.) and Chiava (e.)—is revealed. The main concepts in a woman's life, marriage (avaksshi) and motherhood (tyadyaksshi, avakschi), were defined in accordance with solar religious images. Secondly, the longevity of the nakosnik in traditional women's costumes of the Mordva-Moksha is determined by its practical function, supporting activities related to food preparation. Furthermore, the authors conclude that starting from the 10th century, which became a turning point in the history of the Mordovian people, changes occurred in the political, economic, and migrational aspects of culture, leading to a gradual transformation in the morphology of the nakosnik. This transformation was related to the understanding by women of the impossibility of preserving the original spiral method of making the nakosnik. Married women transitioned to a more practical and quicker way of styling their hair, using a pre-made sheath for the braid made of bast or tree bark. The spiral wrapping was preserved later only for the purpose of decorating the puloker.