Folk Clothing of Ukrainians in the Discourse of “Folk Art and Ethnology” Journal

The submitted article is an attempt of a comprehensive reflection of the development of research on Ukrainian folk clothing on the pages of “Folk Art and Ethnology” journal throughout the century of its existence. An academic discourse has been constrained largely by ideological frameworks during the Soviet period. However, it is precisely the epoch when a solid source base has been formed, and methodological approaches are developed. They have retained their relevance to this day. At that time active research has been conducted into regional clothing complexes, headwear, costume components, embroidery, and transformations in clothing culture, reflecting the expansion of scholarly interests and a shift from descriptive practices to systematic analysis. This stage in the history of research is marked by the important contributions of scholars such as Yakiv Prylypko, Kateryna Mateiko and Tamara Nikolaieva. Attention to the symbolic and ritual functions of traditional clothing has been returned only with the weakening of ideological pressure. Ukrainian ethnology has overcome gradually the inertia of previous approaches and broadened the scope of research with the restoration of Ukrainian statehood. In the early 21st century, the focus has been shifted to exploring regional and local specificities of folk dress as markers of ethnocultural identity, as well as the contemporary functioning of traditional attire in modern sociocultural conditions. Researchers have also turned their attention to the presence of folk clothing in urban environments and to children’s clothing culture. It is summarized and shown that the evolution of Ukrainian folk clothing research has taken place in complex sociopolitical conditions, with the journal playing a key role in this process. The accumulated body of work remains relevant and continues to serve as a foundation for modern ethnological studies. The journal still fulfills a cultural mission in preserving traditional dress as an element of national heritage and identity.