Rhinestone back jewel with coral

This ornament was worn by the Tekke-Turkmen on their backs and attached to their hair. The piece is decorated with five cornalines and gilded vines. The central field has a decoration of leaf vines with a border of leaf vines in spiral form. The outline is formed by borders of silver wire with spiral motif.‖ A piece of jewelry such as this was passed down from generation to generation (from mother to daughter). Usually, such pieces were kept in safe places in the privacy of the home and worn only on festive occasions, such as weddings. The total weight of jewelry carried by a bride at her wedding could exceed fifteen kilograms. \In the literature, pieces such as this back ornament are usually described as "heart-shaped". However, the hypothesis of a stylized representation of a spear or arrowhead seems just as likely. The back is the part of the body that can protect man least from evil influences that could harm him. By wearing jewellery with a defensive function on the back, people could protect themselves against all kinds of threats. The red semi-precious stone coral, often used in Tekke-Turkmen jewelry, also had a magical defensive function. With fire gilding, an amalgam of mercury and gold is applied to the surface of a piece of metal jewelry. By slightly heating the amalgam, the mercury evaporates and the layer of gold adheres. This form of gilding is highly resistant to oxidation.‖ The peak of Turkmen jewelry production was in the nineteenth century, when the Tekke Turkmen in particular conducted raids as far away as Iran and Afghanistan, seeking people for the lucrative slave markets of the urban centers of Central Asia. The resulting wealth was invested primarily in jewelry.