INVESTIGATION OF SEAM EFFICIENCY OF DIFFERENT SEAM TYPES IN WOOLEN GARMENTS

Seams are very important for the quality of woolen garments. Seams of the garment must be durable and smooth. Seam performance is an important factor determining the durability of a garment. The tensile characteristics of seamed fabric changes with the change of fabric bias angle, stitch and seam types. In this study, three wool fabrics with different properties were chosen. Fabrics have been cut in the angles 0°, 30°, 45°, 60° and 90° and then sewn with six different seam types (SSa-1/301, LSc-1/301, LSq-2/301, LSb-1/301, SSc-1/301, LSc-2/301). In these samples, the effects of different seam types at different seam angles of stitching on seam strength and seam efficiency were investigated. Results indicated that, the woolen fabrics seamed with different seam types at different angles possessed statistically different seam strength and seam efficiency values. Fabrics seamed with LSc-2 seam type give the highest seam strength and seam efficiency values and the seams prepared with 30° and 60° bias angles give the lowest seam strength values. Generally, SSa superimposed seam type is preferred in garments. As can be seen from this study, if LSc lapped seam type is used instead of SSa superimposed seam type, the seams would be more durable.