Silver dress pin with rosette motif

Clothing pin (fibula) with a rosette motif. This type of clothing pin is worn by Berber women in the Middle Atlas region. Besides being used to tie wrapping cloths the clothing pins have an ornamental function; they form part of the breast ornaments, which women wear together with head ornaments, rings and bracelets at parties and other special occasions. Berber objects usually feature geometric and animal motifs, but rarely floral motifs. The rosette motif on this pin therefore points to other, urban, influences. Fibulae are often worn as a pair, the two pins are then linked by a chain and fastened at shoulder height while the chain hangs at belly height. The link chain, called sinselt or asherrab (Berber), can be simple, but is also often equipped with a spherical pendant decorated with (precious) stones or other ornaments or a decorated amulet. Fibulae can also be worn without a chain, separately. \Fibulae come in different shapes, the most common shapes are: triangle, diamond or circle. In particular, the triangular shaped fibula is used today (early seventies) as a symbol of Berber identity. The emblem of the triangular shaped fibula can be found in various expressions of art and culture and during manifestations. \The tradition in Morocco is that jewellery is handed down from generation to generation, from mother to daughter. The future bride almost always receives a fibula as part of her trousseau. In addition to their utility and decorative function, these ornaments serve another, economic purpose. One keeps them in situations of financial need to be able to sell or exchange. Jewelry also has a communicative value and can convey certain messages. For example, a piece of jewelry is a sign of love. A woman who wears a fibula, a bracelet, an earring or a khamsa (hand) made of silver, shows her connection with her traditions and origin. Fibulae and khamsa (little hands) are among the jewels women value highly. This jewelry has often been given a magical meaning.ManufactureThe pin's entirety is cast in a mold and ajourced using a hammer and chisel. In the centre is a floral design (rosette) surrounded by decorative holes, or perforations. The floral motif indicates urban influence, because Berber motifs are often geometric and rarely floral. The circular link (or ring) with thickened ends is carved and hammered. The pin is part of a pair which are linked by a chain through the ring at the bottom. Similar fibulae are also found in the city, but instead of silver pins, pins of gold are made in the city which are richly decorated with, for example, gemstones (Rabate, 1996, p.190 and 1999, p.159).\If there are differences in shape, size and decoration, the manufacturing process of fibulae in the Berber areas is almost identical. After the silver (raw silver or used jewelry and/or coins) is melted in a crucible, it is poured into a two-piece mold in which the impression of the pin is made on wet sand. Next, the two parts of the mould are removed from each other and the pin is removed. The rings of the fibulae are made of wire. Metal is melted and cast in bar form, then it is beaten with a hammer into a thin bar which can be bent with pliers. The geometric motifs and shapes are engraved on a wooden anvil using a hammer and burin. The excavated parts are then filled with a black fabric. This fabric is made from resin from the juniper tree (taqqa). The resin melts by heating and is poured over the band, which is also heated and even hotter. The resin fills in the reliefs and after cooling, the excess resin is ground away with a file. Finally, the pin is polished so that the contrast of the shiny white silver against the brown-black filling is clearly visible.