Where Chocolate Begins and Research Methods End: Understanding Kuna Cacao Consumption

Contrary to a recent deluge of scientific and popular publications, the island-dwelling Kuna people of Ailigandi, San Blas Panama do not consume large amounts of locally derived cacao beverages. This paper introduces new research on the actual consumption of Theobroma cacao among the people of Ailigandi. The chocolate tree, Theobroma cacao, is of great cultural importance for Kuna people, and its fruits are used within multiple contexts as an irreplaceable element of Kuna identity and cultural life. However, cacao cultivation has become dramatically more difficult because of the numerous fungal pathogens that attack the tree. Despite the constraints this has placed on local cacao production, recent studies suggest that Kuna people consume large amounts of local cacao. This research evaluates the livelihood strategies and dietetic intake of the Kuna in a cross-cultural context. Findings suggest that recent studies may have misunderstood the local reality in their depictions of the Kuna people of Ailigandi as prolific consumers of locally derived cacao. Using a methodology that incorporates a local nomenclature, I found that the actual consumption of locally grown cacao among Kuna people is negligible, notwithstanding the claims of researchers whose work is largely funded by an industrial chocolate manufacturer.