A novel sophorolipids extraction method by yeast fermentation process for enhanced skin efficacy

Abstract Aims Oriental herbs have been used as medicines in the folk remedy for their numerous phytochemicals and bioactivities. In this study, we have selected five Korean traditional medical herbs and applied bio conversion extraction technology, named it as Bioconversion Oji complex, to identify phytochemicals and evaluate skin related efficacies. Material and methods The process of two‐step bio conversion was sequentially conducted. The first step of fermentation was to produce biosurfactants using macadamia seed oil with Candida bombicola, and then five natural plants were added to carry out the main fermentation. To evaluate skin improvement efficacy of Bioconversion Oji complex, in vitro and in vivo studies were conducted. We studied HaCaT cells cultured to assess viability, skin anti‐inflammatory, moisturizing and barrier improvement‐related mRNA expression. For efficacy study, 21 participants were tested evaluating anti‐inflammatory, skin moisturizing and skin barrier improving effects of Bioconversion Oji complex compared to Water extraction of Oji (placebo) for the 4 weeks test period. Results The application of bioconversion technology highly increased the content of amino acids and lipids within Bioconversion Oji complex, and 23 flavonoids were also identified. Bioconversion Oji complex was found to be non‐toxic and showed significant effects in all parameters tested, including anti‐inflammation, skin moisture, and skin barrier in both in vitro and in clinical studies. Conclusions Bioconversion Oji complex has demonstrated skin‐friendly properties with significant beneficial effects on anti‐inflammatory, skin hydration and barrier function properties. This study provides evidence for the use of Bioconversion Oji complex as an active ingredient in cosmetics and skincare products.