Continuity and (R)Evolution in the Twenty-First-Century London French Restaurant

This chapter considers continuity and (r)evolution, culinary competition and cultural change in the London French restaurant of the ‘Global Food Capital’ that is 21st century London. It is divided into four sections: ‘Changing Contexts, Evolving Trends and the Place of the French Restaurant in London as a “Global Food Capital”’; ‘Culinary Competition and the Twenty-First Century London French Restaurant’; ‘Cultural Change and the Twenty-First Century London French Restaurant’; ‘A French Restaurant ‘Instagram’ from London in the Second Decade of the Twenty-First Century’. In the London context – away from its roots – French culinary practice and traditions could more readily open themselves up to take in new influences, allowing the surrounding culture to permeate the French restaurant and to create something new while retaining its own identity. This final chapter explores how French continuity and evolution played out in the fast-moving London restaurant scene of the early twenty first century. It examines different types of French restaurant from haute cuisine often aimed at an international audience, to large and small mid-market restaurant groups of varied ‘French’ authenticity to the neighbourhood restaurant. A number of interviews are included with contemporary restaurateurs, along with an exploration of the identities of the ‘London French’ restaurant.