Turkey red prints: identification of lead chromate, Prussian blue and logwood on Turkey red calico

In this research, printed Turkey red calico from the 19th century is analysed using conservation-based techniques to identify the materials used in their manufacture. Turkey red production was a significant industry in Scotland, and the textiles found in archives and collections are a valuable part of Scottish heritage and material history. Turkey red prints were produced via a unique dyeing process followed by discharge printing, and the analysis in this paper using SEM-EDX, FTIR, UHPLC, and microscopy confirms they were made as documented in the literature. Here, we show that lead chromate, Prussian blue, and logwood were used to create the distinctive prints. These results are useful to develop material-specific guidelines for storage and display for improved conservation and collection accessibility.